Most of the time this means the scene is not yet in the state that panel expects. Resin2FDM hides or disables things on purpose so you do not accidentally skip important steps.

1. If the Model Prep or Assign Miniature panels are missing, make sure you have clicked Prepare Scene and then Import STL in the Setup panel.
2. If later panels are greyed out, check that you have run Split by Loose Parts (Step 3) and successfully assigned a MINIATURE (Step 4). Some tools will only appear once the scene is marked as "split complete" and a miniature exists.
3. If you want to see every panel regardless of state, enable Open All Menus in the Feature Toggles panel. This will not force tools to run out of order, but it will expose everything for inspection.

This usually means there are extra Blender objects in the scene (like cameras or lights) that Resin2FDM did not create. The addon wants a clean, predictable environment so it knows which objects to manage.

1. If you are comfortable in Blender, you can open the Outliner (top-right by default) and delete any Camera or Light objects from the current scene.
2. The simpler option is to go back to the Setup panel and click Reset Scene (or Prepare Scene if you have not run it yet). Then re-import your STL and continue from Step 2.

Once only Resin2FDM objects remain, Assign Miniature should stop complaining.

These tools are helpers, not magic. On some models (especially very simple or very noisy ones) they will not find anything reliable.

1. For Auto-Select, adjust the sensitivity slider. Drag it up to cast a wider net and include more pieces as potential miniature parts; drag it down to be more selective. Run Attempt Auto-Select after each adjustment.
2. For Tip Detection, double-check that the tip size and shape roughly match what the sculptor used. If your tips are very small, moving the expected size slider down a bit can help.
3. If you have tried small adjustments and still get nothing useful, do not fight the tooling. Fall back to the manual workflow described in Steps 4 and 5: select the miniature yourself, assign it, and thicken supports. The core workflow does not depend on these helpers.

After thickening, you may notice the miniature or supports appear slightly higher off the build plate than before. This is intentional.

Resin2FDM recalculates the lowest point of the mesh after thickening and snaps it back to Z = 0 automatically. The apparent upward movement is just a visual side-effect of the modifier being applied; the actual export will still sit flat on the build plate.

By default, Resin2FDM tries hard not to accidentally destroy your previous exports. If a file with the same name already exists in the output folder, the addon will warn you and block the write.

In the Export panel you will see a small lock icon next to the overwrite warning. Click this lock to temporarily allow overwriting existing files. Once it is unlocked, run your export again and the new files will replace the old ones.

If you want to keep both versions, leave the lock engaged and instead change the base file name before exporting.

No. Once you have opened the shared Google Drive folder — even just once — Google saves it under Shared with me permanently. You will always be able to find previous versions there, even after your subscription lapses.

New versions released after you cancel will require an active subscription to access, but nothing you already have disappears.

This is expected behaviour and safe to ignore.

When you import the miniature and supports as separate objects, the slicer sees the miniature sitting in mid-air with no slicer-generated supports beneath it and fires a warning. It cannot tell that you are using the thickened supports object as supports instead.

As long as you imported both the miniature and the supports file and placed them correctly, this warning has no effect on the final print.

Import both the miniature STL and the supports STL together as a single drag-drop or multi-file import, rather than importing them separately in two steps. OrcaSlicer centres each file on the plate as it arrives, which shifts the second file out of position.

Once they are on the plate as one import batch, right-click the group and choose Split to Objects. You can then assign separate paint settings (layer heights, support material, etc.) to each object while keeping them perfectly aligned.

Blueprint Studio is the most recommended option for this workflow. It gives you reliable, well-distributed supports that thicken and export cleanly through Resin2FDM.

Chitubox and free-tier Lychee both work but have drawbacks for FDM conversion — they tend to miss hanging areas that matter for FDM printing. Lychee Premium is likely better but costs extra. If Blueprint Studio covers your needs, it is free and purpose-built for this kind of model.

These depend on your printer and filament, but reasonable starting points are:

• Tip width: 0.3 mm – 0.6 mm. Aim as small as your printer can reliably print so they snap off cleanly without leaving big scars.
• Support width: 1.2 mm – 2 mm. Wide enough to survive the print without snapping, but not so wide they are hard to remove.

If supports are breaking mid-print, increase support width first. If the contact scars on the model are too obvious, reduce tip width. The two values are independent — thicker supports with thin tips is a very common and effective combination.

Support failure has a few common causes. Work through these one at a time:

Test small first. Cut a single foot or torso out of the model, support only that, and print it in under an hour. Iterating on a small piece wastes far less filament than full failed prints.

Watch the print and identify when the break happens:

• Breaking while plastic is being laid down → slow your wall speeds.
• Breaking when the nozzle travels to the next spot → your travel speed or acceleration may be too high, or your Z-hop is insufficient.
• Strings forming during travel and pulling supports → check pressure advance and make sure your filament is dry.

Thicken your supports. If you have not already, try 1.5 mm width. The first few layers are the most vulnerable.

Use Support Reinforcement. The Cross-Brace feature in the latest version of Resin2FDM is designed exactly for this: it adds diagonal braces between isolated pillars so they support each other without requiring a larger contact point.

Check your calibration. Resin-style supports amplify small tuning problems. The OrcaSlicer calibration guide is a thorough starting point.

Support interface marks are normal to some degree, but you can minimise them:

• Keep tip sizes as small as your printer can handle (0.3–0.5 mm). Smaller tips leave smaller scars.
• If you are using the Advanced version of Resin2FDM, export the tips separately and assign them a different material (e.g. PETG tips with PLA supports). PETG and PLA do not bond strongly, so the tips snap off cleanly and leave much less residue.
• Try reducing the support interface layer count in your slicer to 1 layer instead of 2–3.
• Some residual marks are unavoidable — light sanding or a hobby knife works well for cleaning contact points on finished prints.